Quick answer
On an electric oven, no heat is usually a burned-out bake element, a bad relay or a failed control. On a gas oven it is usually a weak igniter that cannot open the gas valve. Appliance Repair Philly repairs ovens across Philadelphia, and the diagnostic is $60 flat, credited toward the repair. Gas work goes to a qualified technician only.
Check these first
- Power. Is the clock lit? A blank display points to a tripped breaker. Electric ovens use a double breaker.
- Settings. Make sure the oven is not in sabbath, demo or timed bake mode, and the control is not locked.
- Test the temperature. Use an oven thermometer. If it is within 15°F of the setting, it is normal.
- Try the broiler. If the broiler works but bake does not, the bake element or relay is the problem.
- Look at the bake element on electric ovens (with the oven off and cool). A blister, a break or a bright spot means it has failed.
Electric oven causes
| Cause | What to notice |
|---|---|
| Bake element | Broken or blistered, the bottom does not glow red |
| Broil element | Top does not glow, bake works |
| Bake or broil relay on the board | Clicking with no heat, or no click |
| Temperature sensor | Heats too little or too much, error code |
| Thermal fuse | Burned out after a self-clean, a dead oven |
| Control board | Display problems, no heat anywhere |
Gas oven causes
- Igniter. The igniter glows but never opens the gas valve. It is the most common gas oven fault, and it is cheap.
- Safety valve. The valve does not open even with a good igniter.
- Flame sensor or thermostat. Shuts off the gas early.
- Control board.
If you smell gas, leave the home and call the gas company or 911 from outside. If the gas oven fills the kitchen with the smell and does not light, turn it off and ventilate.
What happens after a self-clean
A self-clean cycle heats the oven far above normal. Right after it, the thermal fuse, the control board or the door lock can fail. If your oven stopped working after a self-clean, tell the technician. It speeds up the diagnosis.
What the technician does
The technician checks the display and error codes, tests the element or the igniter with a meter, checks the sensor resistance, tests the relays, and confirms the oven reaches temperature after the repair. Elements and igniters are usually fixed in one visit.
What it costs
| Fault | Typical total with part |
|---|---|
| Diagnostic | $60 flat, credited to the repair |
| Bake or broil element | $150 to $280 |
| Gas igniter | $160 to $300 |
| Temperature sensor | $150 to $260 |
| Thermal fuse or door latch | $150 to $300 |
| Control board | $250 to $500 |
Repair or replace
Ranges last about 13 to 15 years. Elements, igniters and sensors are very good repairs, and a control board on a newer or premium range is usually worth it. On a basic 15 year old oven with a bad board, compare with a new one. See the cost guide.
How it works
- Call or send the brand, model, fuel type and what you see.
- Call to check the next open appointment; availability depends on the schedule.
- Diagnosis and a clear price. The $60 is credited if you go ahead.
- Repair and test. Ask what the repair includes when you book.
More on the whole appliance: oven repair and stove, range and cooktop repair. We come to Philadelphia, Northeast Philadelphia, Bensalem, Willow Grove, Abington, Huntingdon Valley, Southampton and Feasterville-Trevose.
FAQ
Why is my electric oven not heating?
Usually the bake element, a relay or the thermal fuse. A technician tests each.
Why is my gas oven not heating?
Usually a weak igniter that cannot open the gas valve. Gas repairs need a qualified technician.
How much does it cost to fix an oven that won’t heat?
Most repairs are $150 to $400. The $60 diagnostic is credited toward the repair.
Why does my oven heat up slowly or not reach temperature?
A weak element or igniter, a bad sensor or a worn door seal.
Is it safe to use the stove if the oven is broken?
Gas and electric cooktops run separately, but if you smell gas, stop using everything and leave the home.